It was a cool morning. I awoke in my sleeping bag to the sound of my travel alarm at the early hour of 5:30 AM. I had set up camp late the night before on my meager five acres of desert land located about 20 miles northwest of Big Bend National Park.  I would not normally rise at such an early hour, but on this trip I had specific plans for the day of which I had no intention of delaying (I was going on a horseback ride). After drinking a pot of coffee, I secured my camp site, then made the 45 mile drive south to Lajitas, on the Mexican border.

In Lajitas I met Jana, the general manager of Lajitas Stables. She informed me that I was going to join up with other riders on their return trip of a 5-day Mexico ride.  This was an all day ride over some 20 miles of country that I had never seen before. I had hoped that this particular ride would be an option for me, but I was willing to settle for whatever Lajitas Stables would have going out that day. I was truly delighted. Jana had me meet Lico on the river where we crossed by rowboat to the Mexican side. Lico had a truck waiting for us on the other side, which we used to make the 20 mile drive south to San Carlos where I would meet up with the other riders at La Gloria's Bed & Breakfast.

Lico and I arrived in San Carlos as Onorio (our Mexican guide) was saddling the horses. Linda was there with the riders at La Gloria's, although she and Lico were not taking the ride this day. They were down there scouting out horses to buy for their stables. While I waited with them and the other riders, Pam and Jamie, I inspected La Gloria's establishment. Wow! What a great place. It sits at the mouth of a deeply cut canyon, high above a running creek bed. Practically brand new, spick and span clean, and downright fancy. I never expected it to be so nice. Spacious bedrooms and baths, a small but very comfortable lobby, and large dining and kitchen area. The grounds are terraced with brightly colored gardens and running water sloping down towards the natural spring far below. The view of the surrounding countryside from the expansive open veranda is picture perfect. Linda and Lico insisted that I eat before starting out on the ride, so I joined Lico in a delicious Mexican breakfast. If all their meals are that good, I think I could be happy just hanging around La Gloria's for a week. Definitely a 4-star bed & breakfast.

Finally we were ready to head out. Linda arranged for me to ride a mule, saying that they are more sure-footed on the rugged terrain than horses. I didn't mind and I figured she knew better than I did about what would make the ride more enjoyable for me. So now we were on our way, trotting slowly through the dusty streets of San Carlos. The path we followed out of town was a gradual incline for the first couple hours, as we soon were out of sight of San Carlos and into the hilly terrain of the Mexican landscape. The ride was slow and calming to the senses. We eventually reached a high point where we stopped for our first rest. From there we could see mountains far away to the north in Texas, with wide open valleys spread out before us.

By early afternoon we had reached a ranching area and the beginning of a colorful canyon of rose colored walls and oddly shaped tuff formations. We stopped for lunch just past the ranch, at the edge of a high runoff where the canyon opened up to show us its awesome splendor while we ate. The water of the creek slowly rolled past at our feet and then disappeared over the abysmal edge of the runoff. This was by far the most beautiful setting (of many) along the trail and a great place to stop for lunch.

We were on our way again. We had to ride the high ridge above the canyon for a short way before we came to a descending point. The trail was steep and treacherous, but I trusted my mule. The trail took us into the bottom of the canyon where we then followed the creek for a few miles as we rode through water and sand, an abundance of trees, and the colorful layers of the canyon walls. We were riding through a wider section of the canyon and the creek was pretty straight and flat. Now was the true test of my fears.

I was told that we were going to go into a fast gallop (run was more like it). Now, seeing how I haven't ever really run a horse (or a mule for that matter) before, I was a bit unsure of this event. But I played along. We ran, off and on, for about 2 miles through the creek bed. I soon gained confidence with the running. My mule was slower than the horses, so we had a bit of distance between, but I was able to see them well. I watched the riders ahead of me, as scenes from old western movies started running in my mind. The race of the horse and horseman was being played out before me. Water and muddy dirt was flying in wide circles out from under the horses' hooves while the riders rushed them onward, and I found myself lost in this span of time, as though the scene were running in slow motion. It was one of the most thrilling things I had ever seen or done. I let my sight drift from side to side as we sped past the rugged shapes of the canyon walls, as my body lifted and fell in rhythm with the running of the mule.

Toward the end of the canyon, we came to a stop and took a short walk up along a ledge under some cliffs where we saw ancient pictographs that had been left by native indians many hundred years earlier. As we rode on we reached a narrower section of the canyon that was too difficult to ride our mounts over, so we had to dismount and walk them through. Here we stopped for a nice long rest. Thick layers of smooth, flat rock jutted out of the ground at symetrical angles, making for a comfortable place to recline. The trail soon led out of the canyon and onto slightly higher ground as the rolling hills of the Chihuahuan Desert fell in somber waves before us. Thus was the rest of the trail into Paso Lajitas, where we ended our ride and crossed the Rio Grande in the little rowboat.

I was back in my home land of Texas, but my mind was still on the trails of Old Mexico. I couldn't seem to bridge the gap. The ground under my feet seemed to sway as though I were on a ship in the ocean.  I knew this feeling would pass long before I wanted it to, but I would hold on to it as long as I could. What remains of it is the story above. A poor account of the event when compared to actually being there. And now I wait in eager anticipation for my next ride with Lajitas Stables.